Last weekend I spent a few days in the German capital Berlin.
It was the first time I'd been to Berlin since spending a day there in 1995. At the time I was inter-railing across Europe. I wasn't there long enough to get a real feel for the city. My lasting memory was the feeling of amazement that only 6 years after the fall of the Berlin Wall I was actually in the city itself standing in front of the Brandenburg Gate!
I remembered looking over towards East Berlin and seeing what looked like a massive building site. I always thought it would be great to come back again one day once all the rebuilding had finished.
Brandenburg Gate
Berlin has a reputation of being a kind of cool hipster capital of Europe, similar to London's Shoreditch and Hoxton. I have to admit it does have that vibe about it. I was surprised at just how chilled and laid back Berlin was for a capital city.
Cities like London, Paris and New York have that feel of places that say to you: 'this is where it's at' They are cities that have the confidence to say we are the biggest and the best. Certainly with London, Paris and even Rome, you also have that European grandeur.
Even though Berlin is an historic capital I get the feeling that it doesn't have those kind of pretensions, it feels like a city that doesn't take itself too seriously which is something I quite liked.
What Berlin does have is a heavy sense of 20th century history hanging over it. No city in the world represented the division between the Capitalist West and Communist East than the Berlin Wall. I remember when the Wall came down in 1989 and realising that I was watching a truly historical event.
Other historical sites include the government parliament the Reichstag which was famously burnt down by the Nazis in 1933, Checkpoint Charlie and The Topography of Terror, both an in and outdoor museum on the site of the ruins of the old Gestapo and SS headquarters.
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe.
I wasn't aware of the memorial until my friend pointed it out to me. It was designed by the architect Peter Eisenman and inaugurated in 2005. The memorial is made up of hundreds a grey blocks which have been formed into a grid system which once inside feels like you're in a maze. The slabs are of varying sizes and when you walk inside, can feel quite disorientating.
Berlin isn't all about the darker side of European and World history. Berlin is also famed for its nightlife. I have to admit I found Berlin's nightlife a bit confusing to begin with. The city is very quiet and doesn't have what you could call a traditional city centre, there are different neighborhoods. When you go out in the evening you didn't really come across a row of bars or clubs in the way you might do on a UK high-street.
Berlin's bars and clubs all appear to be quite discreet, its as if you have to stumble across them or know exactly where you are going to find a place. What I liked was that when you do find somewhere there are some really nice intimate chilled out bars to discover. Busy enough to create a good atmosphere but not overly crowded to make the experience tiring. a couple of the bars and clubs we went to had a bell you had to ring to get in before being confronted by a curtain. It was like you were being allowed into an exclusive venue that once inside was pretty chilled and very inclusive.
I realised that's what Berlin is all about, nice bars and cool clubs that you need to hunt down or keep your eye out for. There's no need to dress up, nobody seems to care what you look like and this is what I quite liked about Berlin.
It's definitely a cool place to spend a weekend.
Hertha v Schalke: Hertha Ultras
One of the main reasons for visiting Germany was for the chance to watch a Bundersliga football match. The Premier League may be the richest and most popular league in the world, but Germany's Bundersliga has a growing reputation were fans can watch affordable games in some of the best stadiums in the world and where the fan culture and support is second to none.
Watching Hertha v Schalke was a great experience. Hertha aren't really one of the most glamourous or famous names in German football but they're having an exceptional season. Before the start of the match they stood in 3rd place in the league behind Bayern and Dortmund. They have a great chance of qualifiing for next season's Champions League.
This was an important match as Schalke were one place behind them in fourth; if Hertha could win it would help cement their position in third. It was an good match, fairly even in the first half with Hertha taking the lead just before half time. The second half Hertha were very much the better team and deservedly doubled their lead in the middle of the second half. They had chances to make it three which they failed to take but overall they deserved their win.
Apart from the football what really stood out were the fans. Hertha's ultra supporters behind the goal were superb. They never stopped singing and chanting. It was an impressive sight to see thousands of fans all jumping up and down in unison. I should also give credit to Schalke who also brought some numbers with them as well and contributed to the atmosphere.
One of the things I loved most about Berlin is the graffiti and street art you see on buildings all over the city. I know you find graffiti in many cities but Berlin seems to have taken it to another level and forms part of the city's look and identity.
The legacy of the Wall
In various districts of the city you can find parts of the Wall that still remain. They form part of a memorial to those people who risked and lost their lives trying to cross from East to West Berlin. It's very poignant to see and it's good that they've kept bits of the Wall up, if only to remind people of the destructive nature of building barriers between people.
Views, comments and analysis from me over the week's news headlines, and anything else that's caught my interest.
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Friday, 18 March 2016
Monday, 16 June 2014
"Brazil is not for Beginners" Tom Jobim
So far I have to say I'm loving this World Cup.
The games have been great, even England entertained me against Italy, but what I love is that this World Cup isn't just about the football.
It's about getting to know Brazil as a country. This was something I had a chance to do last year when I spent two weeks in Brazil, firstly in Rio before heading north to Salvador.
Brazil's always intrigued and fascinated me. Before I went, I felt like I knew a bit about country. It's history, the people, of course its football and music.
For some reason I naively thought Brazil would be like a South American version of Spain or Italy, perhaps just a bit more exotic. When I look back I couldn't have been more wrong.
Brazil wasn't quite what I expected. Yes in Rio I experienced the popular images of sun, beaches, football and samba, but I slowly began to realise that I didn't know Brazil at all. That actually when you go beyond the cliches, Brazil is a real unknown quantity to many people.
I've come to the conclusion that Brazil is unique; you can't compare it to anywhere else in the world. That uniqueness comes from many different sources. Firstly the language - they speak Portuguese while the rest of Latin America speaks Spanish. The ethnic mix is incredible. It's not a white country, a black country or a mixed race country it's just Brazil.
It's the size of a continent and as much as Rio represents the face of Brazil to the rest of the world. One city can never truly represent the whole country. For all my previous interest and knowledge about Brazil it's more complex and contradictory than I imagined.
This World Cup is giving people a chance to rethink all the stereotypes and preconceptions about what Brazil and Brazilians are all about.
Things started to change during last year's Confederations Cup competition. The world saw thousands of Brazilians take to the streets to protest about the cost of hosting the World Cup.
It came as a surprise to many. We're told Brazil is the spiritual home of football but suddenly we were confronted by Brazilians who were more concerned about government corruption, poor healthcare and education and a failing transport infrastructure. These things were far more important than a football tournament.
What happened to he happy go lucky party people we like to imagine Brazilians to be?
I've heard a lot about how many Brazilians would like their country to be known for more than just football, samba and a great place to party. I can understand that frustration of a vast and complex nation being defined by a few tired cliches.
The Famous Brazilian Bossa Nova composer Tom Jobim once said about Brazil:
'Brazil is not for beginners'
I heard this quote twice in the space of two days last week. Firstly by the BBC's South American football correspondent Tim Vickery and again in an article in last weekend's Sunday Times.
What does this quote mean? Brazil isn't what you think it is. It's more complex, more confusing, more contradictory, more challenging than a few basic assumptions.
Perhaps by the end of this World Cup, none us will be beginners anymore when it comes to Brazil.
The games have been great, even England entertained me against Italy, but what I love is that this World Cup isn't just about the football.
It's about getting to know Brazil as a country. This was something I had a chance to do last year when I spent two weeks in Brazil, firstly in Rio before heading north to Salvador.
Brazil's always intrigued and fascinated me. Before I went, I felt like I knew a bit about country. It's history, the people, of course its football and music.
For some reason I naively thought Brazil would be like a South American version of Spain or Italy, perhaps just a bit more exotic. When I look back I couldn't have been more wrong.
Brazil wasn't quite what I expected. Yes in Rio I experienced the popular images of sun, beaches, football and samba, but I slowly began to realise that I didn't know Brazil at all. That actually when you go beyond the cliches, Brazil is a real unknown quantity to many people.
I've come to the conclusion that Brazil is unique; you can't compare it to anywhere else in the world. That uniqueness comes from many different sources. Firstly the language - they speak Portuguese while the rest of Latin America speaks Spanish. The ethnic mix is incredible. It's not a white country, a black country or a mixed race country it's just Brazil.
It's the size of a continent and as much as Rio represents the face of Brazil to the rest of the world. One city can never truly represent the whole country. For all my previous interest and knowledge about Brazil it's more complex and contradictory than I imagined.
This World Cup is giving people a chance to rethink all the stereotypes and preconceptions about what Brazil and Brazilians are all about.
Things started to change during last year's Confederations Cup competition. The world saw thousands of Brazilians take to the streets to protest about the cost of hosting the World Cup.
It came as a surprise to many. We're told Brazil is the spiritual home of football but suddenly we were confronted by Brazilians who were more concerned about government corruption, poor healthcare and education and a failing transport infrastructure. These things were far more important than a football tournament.
What happened to he happy go lucky party people we like to imagine Brazilians to be?
I've heard a lot about how many Brazilians would like their country to be known for more than just football, samba and a great place to party. I can understand that frustration of a vast and complex nation being defined by a few tired cliches.
The Famous Brazilian Bossa Nova composer Tom Jobim once said about Brazil:
'Brazil is not for beginners'
I heard this quote twice in the space of two days last week. Firstly by the BBC's South American football correspondent Tim Vickery and again in an article in last weekend's Sunday Times.
What does this quote mean? Brazil isn't what you think it is. It's more complex, more confusing, more contradictory, more challenging than a few basic assumptions.
Perhaps by the end of this World Cup, none us will be beginners anymore when it comes to Brazil.
Tuesday, 13 May 2014
My week in Japan
I've spent the last week in Japan visiting my cousin who's been living out there for the last 13 years.
I love Japan. If you want to experience somewhere that's truly foreign then Japan is the place.
When I first went there in 2002 I remember at times feeling overwhelmed by the size and pace of Tokyo and the overall strangeness of the country in general.
This time round it was different, I knew what to expect. But what I love about being in Japan is the feeling of entering into an alternative world. A world that's vaguely familiar yet completely different.
Now that I'm back in the UK I thought I would share with you 5 things I think you should do if you ever get the chance to visit Japan and Tokyo.
Tsukiji Central Fish Market
Tsukiji Fish market is one of the highlight's of any visit to Tokyo. Fish are caught and served on a plate ready to eat in matter of hours.
Tuna is the most popular dish, which is what I had below for lunch. I never knew raw tuna could taste so good and with a touch of Wasabi sauce which gives it that extra kick!
Senso-ji (Senso Temple)
Senso-ji is Tokyo's oldest temple located in the Asakusa area of the city. It's one of biggest attractions in the city.
It's somewhere I remember vividly from my first visit in 2002 and it was great to be back there again.
Spend an evening in Shibuya
During the daytime Tokyo can look like a big concrete jungle but every evening the city literally lights up when the neon lights come on.
Tokyo at night is like no other city. If there's one area of Tokyo that represents everything you've always imagined Tokyo to be it has to be Shibuya.
You'll find the famous Shibuya Crossing rumoured to be the biggest intersection in the world.
Visit the Meiji-jingu
The Meiji-jingu is Tokyo's oldest Shinto Shrine.
I checked this out on my last day in Tokyo. My original plan was to spend the afternoon in nearby Harajuku an area famous for its street fashion.
I'm glad I realised that the Meiji-jingu was just a short distance from the train station. It's well worth a visit.
Take a day trip to Kamakura and Enoshima
Kamakura is a small city about an hour away from Tokyo. It's famous for dozens of temples and shrines and a giant Buddhist statue, The Daibutsu (Big Buddha). I missed the chance to see it in 2002 but made up for it this time.
A short ride from Kamakura by train is the beachside area of Enoshima.
Enoshima is famous for Enoshima island. One of the highlights on my trip was walking along the bridge to the island and watching the sun set of Mount Fuji in the distance.
It was beautiful.
I love Japan. If you want to experience somewhere that's truly foreign then Japan is the place.
When I first went there in 2002 I remember at times feeling overwhelmed by the size and pace of Tokyo and the overall strangeness of the country in general.
This time round it was different, I knew what to expect. But what I love about being in Japan is the feeling of entering into an alternative world. A world that's vaguely familiar yet completely different.
Now that I'm back in the UK I thought I would share with you 5 things I think you should do if you ever get the chance to visit Japan and Tokyo.
Tsukiji Central Fish Market
Tsukiji Fish market is one of the highlight's of any visit to Tokyo. Fish are caught and served on a plate ready to eat in matter of hours.
Tuna is the most popular dish, which is what I had below for lunch. I never knew raw tuna could taste so good and with a touch of Wasabi sauce which gives it that extra kick!
Senso-ji (Senso Temple)
Senso-ji is Tokyo's oldest temple located in the Asakusa area of the city. It's one of biggest attractions in the city.
It's somewhere I remember vividly from my first visit in 2002 and it was great to be back there again.
Spend an evening in Shibuya
During the daytime Tokyo can look like a big concrete jungle but every evening the city literally lights up when the neon lights come on.
Tokyo at night is like no other city. If there's one area of Tokyo that represents everything you've always imagined Tokyo to be it has to be Shibuya.
You'll find the famous Shibuya Crossing rumoured to be the biggest intersection in the world.
Visit the Meiji-jingu
The Meiji-jingu is Tokyo's oldest Shinto Shrine.
I checked this out on my last day in Tokyo. My original plan was to spend the afternoon in nearby Harajuku an area famous for its street fashion.
I'm glad I realised that the Meiji-jingu was just a short distance from the train station. It's well worth a visit.
Take a day trip to Kamakura and Enoshima
Kamakura is a small city about an hour away from Tokyo. It's famous for dozens of temples and shrines and a giant Buddhist statue, The Daibutsu (Big Buddha). I missed the chance to see it in 2002 but made up for it this time.
A short ride from Kamakura by train is the beachside area of Enoshima.
Enoshima is famous for Enoshima island. One of the highlights on my trip was walking along the bridge to the island and watching the sun set of Mount Fuji in the distance.
It was beautiful.
Monday, 29 April 2013
Thoughts on Brazil - An amazing country
Now that I'm back in the UK and my Brazilian adventure has sadly come to an end, I thought now would be a good moment to look back on my trip.
What can I say, Brazil is a truly amazing and unique country. I don't think there's anywhere in the world quite like it.

For years I've always had a thing for Brazil. I think we all have countries or parts of the world that instinctively appeal to us, Brazil's always held that appeal for me.
It's great to visit somewhere you've always wanted to go, then when you get there you discover it's everything you thought it would be and more. That's how I feel about Brazil.
So what was so great about the country?
It's so completely different to the UK and Europe and this is what surprised me. I had this idea it would a Latin American version of Spain or Italy but I couldn't have been more wrong!
Brazil has it's own distinct culture, very Latin American but uniquely Brazilian. I felt this huge cultural gap between Brazil and Europe.
It's a cliche I know, but Brazilian culture seems more joyful in contrast to what seems like the serious uptight world of Europe. Brazilian culture seems more about knowing how to enjoy life's pleasures.
The setting
I only visited Rio and Salvador, but when it comes to natural settings for cities, you'll be hard pushed to beat these two. Rio in particular is stunning.
Not in terms of the architecture of the buildings or the design but more the natural setting, it's so beautfiful. The mountains, the beach, and rain forests, you couldn't have a city in a more perfect place.

The view from Sugar Loaf Mountain
The Language
Only two countries speak Portuguese, Brazil and Portugal.
Considering Portugal only has a population of 10 million compared to Brazil's 200 million they're really the only people in the world that speak the language - it's their own and it adds to the uniqueness of the country.
Although I don't speak Portuguese it sounds like such a rich and expressive language and I've always thought it sounded great in music.
The people
The mix of people in Brazil is incredibly, it's so diverse. You've got everything. When you hear the expression 'Rainbow Nation' look no further than Brazil!
You have people of white European stock who look like they could be from Northern Europe, then you have every shade of white, brown and black until you reach black Brazilians who look African.
Spending time in Salvador, the heart of Brazil's Afro Brazilian population, I saw black and brown people who looked completely different to anyone I'd ever seen before.
It's as if the centuries of mixing between black, white and indigenous Indian has created a new race of people unique to Brazil.
Coming from a place where you have an ethnic majority and ethnic minority population, I wondered what Brazil was. Is it a white country with a large black and brown population? Or a black country with a large white population?
I realised it doesn't apply or matter with Brazil - the issues of race are different there. Everyone is Brazilian regardless of skin colour or ethnic background, it's a proper melting pot.
What I learned
What I discovered is that I didn't know as much about Brazil as I thought I did.
I've loved Brazilian music for years, admired their football, seen films like City of God and read brilliant books about the country like, A Death in Brazil by Peter Robb.
I realised Brazil's still an unknown quantity for many people. There's a lot more to the country than the stereotypes of sun, sea and samba.
Of course it's not all perfect and I shouldn't let 2 weeks romanticise the country. There are big problems with the country's reputation of violence which worried me and does intimidate people from visiting.
There's also huge disparities between rich and poor which I saw first hand and which are likely to remain for some time.
But it really is an exciting time for the country. Brazil feels like it's up and coming, it's an emerging power on the global stage and for that reason it's an interesting place to visit and learn more about.
Here in the UK and Europe it doesn't feel like we're on the up. It's more like we've been on top for too long and now our position is slipping during these times of austerity.
Everything's happening to Brazil. They're holding next year's World Cup and then the Olympics in 2016.
The world will get the chance to learn a lot more about the country and maybe these events will help tackle some of the social and political problems faced in the country.
If you've managed to read this far, you've probably realised just how much I enjoyed my time in Brazil. If I've managed to wet your appetite, I suggest you look at booking a trip yourself, TAP airlines of Portugal do some great deals.
I can confidently say you won't be disappointed if you visit Brazil.
What can I say, Brazil is a truly amazing and unique country. I don't think there's anywhere in the world quite like it.

For years I've always had a thing for Brazil. I think we all have countries or parts of the world that instinctively appeal to us, Brazil's always held that appeal for me.
It's great to visit somewhere you've always wanted to go, then when you get there you discover it's everything you thought it would be and more. That's how I feel about Brazil.
So what was so great about the country?
It's so completely different to the UK and Europe and this is what surprised me. I had this idea it would a Latin American version of Spain or Italy but I couldn't have been more wrong!
Brazil has it's own distinct culture, very Latin American but uniquely Brazilian. I felt this huge cultural gap between Brazil and Europe.
It's a cliche I know, but Brazilian culture seems more joyful in contrast to what seems like the serious uptight world of Europe. Brazilian culture seems more about knowing how to enjoy life's pleasures.
The setting
I only visited Rio and Salvador, but when it comes to natural settings for cities, you'll be hard pushed to beat these two. Rio in particular is stunning.
Not in terms of the architecture of the buildings or the design but more the natural setting, it's so beautfiful. The mountains, the beach, and rain forests, you couldn't have a city in a more perfect place.

The view from Sugar Loaf Mountain
The Language
Only two countries speak Portuguese, Brazil and Portugal.
Considering Portugal only has a population of 10 million compared to Brazil's 200 million they're really the only people in the world that speak the language - it's their own and it adds to the uniqueness of the country.
Although I don't speak Portuguese it sounds like such a rich and expressive language and I've always thought it sounded great in music.
The people
The mix of people in Brazil is incredibly, it's so diverse. You've got everything. When you hear the expression 'Rainbow Nation' look no further than Brazil!
You have people of white European stock who look like they could be from Northern Europe, then you have every shade of white, brown and black until you reach black Brazilians who look African.
Spending time in Salvador, the heart of Brazil's Afro Brazilian population, I saw black and brown people who looked completely different to anyone I'd ever seen before.
It's as if the centuries of mixing between black, white and indigenous Indian has created a new race of people unique to Brazil.
Coming from a place where you have an ethnic majority and ethnic minority population, I wondered what Brazil was. Is it a white country with a large black and brown population? Or a black country with a large white population?
I realised it doesn't apply or matter with Brazil - the issues of race are different there. Everyone is Brazilian regardless of skin colour or ethnic background, it's a proper melting pot.
What I learned
What I discovered is that I didn't know as much about Brazil as I thought I did.
I've loved Brazilian music for years, admired their football, seen films like City of God and read brilliant books about the country like, A Death in Brazil by Peter Robb.
I realised Brazil's still an unknown quantity for many people. There's a lot more to the country than the stereotypes of sun, sea and samba.
Of course it's not all perfect and I shouldn't let 2 weeks romanticise the country. There are big problems with the country's reputation of violence which worried me and does intimidate people from visiting.
There's also huge disparities between rich and poor which I saw first hand and which are likely to remain for some time.
But it really is an exciting time for the country. Brazil feels like it's up and coming, it's an emerging power on the global stage and for that reason it's an interesting place to visit and learn more about.
Here in the UK and Europe it doesn't feel like we're on the up. It's more like we've been on top for too long and now our position is slipping during these times of austerity.
Everything's happening to Brazil. They're holding next year's World Cup and then the Olympics in 2016.
The world will get the chance to learn a lot more about the country and maybe these events will help tackle some of the social and political problems faced in the country.
If you've managed to read this far, you've probably realised just how much I enjoyed my time in Brazil. If I've managed to wet your appetite, I suggest you look at booking a trip yourself, TAP airlines of Portugal do some great deals.
I can confidently say you won't be disappointed if you visit Brazil.
Thursday, 25 April 2013
Olodum Drummers
I have to admit I'd never heard of Olodum until I arrived in Salvador.
Many of the shops in the historic centre sell Olodum clothes and merchandise and you can't really avoid seeing the distinctive logo of the group when you're in the old town.
The group was set up in 1979 by the musician Neguinho do Samba with the aim of providing cultural activities for young people centered around music.
The group looks to celebrate Afro Brazilian culture, fight racism, and raise self esteem within the Afro Brazilian community.
It turns out that I had heard of Olodum as they were featured in the video of Micheal Jackson's They Don't Care about us.
If you want to see Olodum in action, check out this video below.
You can also have a look at the collaboration with Michael Jackson.
Many of the shops in the historic centre sell Olodum clothes and merchandise and you can't really avoid seeing the distinctive logo of the group when you're in the old town.
The group was set up in 1979 by the musician Neguinho do Samba with the aim of providing cultural activities for young people centered around music.
The group looks to celebrate Afro Brazilian culture, fight racism, and raise self esteem within the Afro Brazilian community.
It turns out that I had heard of Olodum as they were featured in the video of Micheal Jackson's They Don't Care about us.
If you want to see Olodum in action, check out this video below.
You can also have a look at the collaboration with Michael Jackson.
Saturday, 20 April 2013
Hello from Salvador, Bahia
After a week in Rio I've headed north to the city of Salvador.
I've been here a few days and feels like I'm in a completely different country. I'm in the Bahia region of North Eastern Brazil, this is where Brazil connects with its African roots.
Nowhere is this more evident then with the population. The majority of people here are black or brown.
Walking around the historic old town of Pelourinho, I feel as if I'm in some alternative version of Africa. But I know this isn't Africa, it doesn't feel like Africa.

The streets of Pelourinho
I then asked myself if this was like the Caribbean, but it didn't look or feel like the Caribbean.
This is Brazil it's not like anywhere else. Even the people look Brazilian in the sense that through centuries of mixing between black, white, and indigenous Indian it's created a black and brown population unique to Brazil.
You feel this African identity everywhere you go in the city and I discovered more about Salvador's African links by visiting the the Afro Brazilian museum.

What I love about being here in Salvador is that it's such a cultural and artistic place.
If Sao Paulo is where you go for business, Rio to party and play - then Salvador is where you go for culture. Whether it's music, art, theatre or dance, you'll find it all in Salvador.
Many of Brazil's most famous musicians come from the city and the surrounding Bahia region. I've been discovering more about the city's famous Afro Brazilian cultural group Olodum, known for its Samba Reggae and percussive drumming.

The city is also home to the Brazilian martial art of Capoeira. I've been enjoying watching some displays of Capoeira in the city's main square.

A tourist giving the old Capoeira a go!
I'm glad I'm spending time here in Salvador. If you're going to visit Brazil, you have to visit Rio, but in visiting Salvador I feel I'm discovering and seeing another side to the country; one the rest of the world doesn't know much about.

Barra Lighthouse, Salvador
It feels like I've gone deep inside the heart and soul of Brazil. I'm feeling that African side of country's culture which is so different to what I experienced down in Rio.
I've never visited anywhere in the world that feels quite like Salvador.
I've been here a few days and feels like I'm in a completely different country. I'm in the Bahia region of North Eastern Brazil, this is where Brazil connects with its African roots.
Nowhere is this more evident then with the population. The majority of people here are black or brown.
Walking around the historic old town of Pelourinho, I feel as if I'm in some alternative version of Africa. But I know this isn't Africa, it doesn't feel like Africa.
The streets of Pelourinho
I then asked myself if this was like the Caribbean, but it didn't look or feel like the Caribbean.
This is Brazil it's not like anywhere else. Even the people look Brazilian in the sense that through centuries of mixing between black, white, and indigenous Indian it's created a black and brown population unique to Brazil.
You feel this African identity everywhere you go in the city and I discovered more about Salvador's African links by visiting the the Afro Brazilian museum.

What I love about being here in Salvador is that it's such a cultural and artistic place.
If Sao Paulo is where you go for business, Rio to party and play - then Salvador is where you go for culture. Whether it's music, art, theatre or dance, you'll find it all in Salvador.
Many of Brazil's most famous musicians come from the city and the surrounding Bahia region. I've been discovering more about the city's famous Afro Brazilian cultural group Olodum, known for its Samba Reggae and percussive drumming.

The city is also home to the Brazilian martial art of Capoeira. I've been enjoying watching some displays of Capoeira in the city's main square.
A tourist giving the old Capoeira a go!
I'm glad I'm spending time here in Salvador. If you're going to visit Brazil, you have to visit Rio, but in visiting Salvador I feel I'm discovering and seeing another side to the country; one the rest of the world doesn't know much about.

Barra Lighthouse, Salvador
It feels like I've gone deep inside the heart and soul of Brazil. I'm feeling that African side of country's culture which is so different to what I experienced down in Rio.
I've never visited anywhere in the world that feels quite like Salvador.
Thursday, 18 April 2013
Brazil: It´s all about the music
I´ve always had a great love for Brazilian music.
Latin Jazz, Bossa Nova, Samba, Rio Funk, Brazilian Drum and bass; Brazilians know how to make music.
One of the great things about being here in Brazil is being able to hear some of this music in its original setting. I haven´t been disappointed.
In Rio there´s an area called Lapa. This is somewhere you have to visit if you want to hear great live music in the city. During the day it´s a pretty rough and seedy looking area - but at night it comes a live with lots of live bars and clubs full of live singers and bands.
I spent a couple of evenings in Lapa just hanging out and listening to some of the live performers. There was a lot of traditional afro brazilian bands playing which I loved, it´s not music you hear everyday but adds to the experience of being in Brazil.
Some brazilian beats
Last Sunday I headed back deep into the favela for a night of Rio Funk.
The hostel where I was staying organizes Favela Funk nights, where they take you to a club in Rochina favela, the biggest favela in the country.
If the Samba styles of Lapa represent the folk music of Brazil and Bossa Nova the stylish sophisticated tastes of the middle classes; then Rio funk is definitely the sound of the street, the ghetto, the favelas!

As tourists, when we arrived we were given our own sort of VIP area upstairs on a balcony overlooking the rest of the club. It was fine being up there for a while, but you couldn´t really get into music and vibe as you were cut off from everyone else down below.

I think everyone from the hostel felt the same and eventually we all made our way down below to start raving with the rest of the locals.
It was brilliant night out, the music was superb and you were never made to feel like outsiders. What I realised is that it doesn´t matter where you go in the world, people are people and they all act the same.
There were moments were I felt I was at a old skool Jungle/Drum&Bass rave from the mid 90s it didn´t really feel that foreign or different.

Outside the club
If you´ve seen the film City of God, the club featured in the film is the one we went to. I loved that film and after being introduced to favela life it felt amazing to be sort of living it!
I loved the way that you get groups of guys doing their choreographed routines like they´re in a boy band, while the girls dance on the sidelines admiring the moves. Sounds strange, but it´s all very Brazilian.
If you plan on visiting Brazil, you have to emerse yourself in the music. Music is a big part of Brazilian culture and you get a better feel of the country by hearing all the different styles of Brazilian music.
Latin Jazz, Bossa Nova, Samba, Rio Funk, Brazilian Drum and bass; Brazilians know how to make music.
One of the great things about being here in Brazil is being able to hear some of this music in its original setting. I haven´t been disappointed.
In Rio there´s an area called Lapa. This is somewhere you have to visit if you want to hear great live music in the city. During the day it´s a pretty rough and seedy looking area - but at night it comes a live with lots of live bars and clubs full of live singers and bands.
I spent a couple of evenings in Lapa just hanging out and listening to some of the live performers. There was a lot of traditional afro brazilian bands playing which I loved, it´s not music you hear everyday but adds to the experience of being in Brazil.
Some brazilian beats
Last Sunday I headed back deep into the favela for a night of Rio Funk.
The hostel where I was staying organizes Favela Funk nights, where they take you to a club in Rochina favela, the biggest favela in the country.
If the Samba styles of Lapa represent the folk music of Brazil and Bossa Nova the stylish sophisticated tastes of the middle classes; then Rio funk is definitely the sound of the street, the ghetto, the favelas!

As tourists, when we arrived we were given our own sort of VIP area upstairs on a balcony overlooking the rest of the club. It was fine being up there for a while, but you couldn´t really get into music and vibe as you were cut off from everyone else down below.

I think everyone from the hostel felt the same and eventually we all made our way down below to start raving with the rest of the locals.
It was brilliant night out, the music was superb and you were never made to feel like outsiders. What I realised is that it doesn´t matter where you go in the world, people are people and they all act the same.
There were moments were I felt I was at a old skool Jungle/Drum&Bass rave from the mid 90s it didn´t really feel that foreign or different.

If you´ve seen the film City of God, the club featured in the film is the one we went to. I loved that film and after being introduced to favela life it felt amazing to be sort of living it!
I loved the way that you get groups of guys doing their choreographed routines like they´re in a boy band, while the girls dance on the sidelines admiring the moves. Sounds strange, but it´s all very Brazilian.
If you plan on visiting Brazil, you have to emerse yourself in the music. Music is a big part of Brazilian culture and you get a better feel of the country by hearing all the different styles of Brazilian music.
Monday, 15 April 2013
Life in the Favelas
On Saturday I went on an organised tour of one of Rio´s favelas.
Life inside the favela was brought to the world´s attention in the film City of God and Favela tours have become a big attraction for anyone visiting the city.
Once we arrived at the top of the hill to the entrance of the favela we were visiting, I felt as if I was entering a completely different world.
I´d go as far to say it was like I´d travelled to a different country in the space of 20 minutes.
After spending my time mainly in the areas of Leblon and Ipenema, two of the most exclusive and fashionable parts of the city - the contrast with the favela couldn´t have been greater.

Although I was looking forward to exploring the favela, there was part of me that felt a little uneasy as it could been seen as patronising for tourists to wonder around a shanty town as if it´s the urban equivalent of going on safari.
Our guide requested that we didn´t take photos of the locals which I thought was right, and he took us to certain spots around the favela where it was appropriate to take photos.

Without the guide there´s no way you´d be able to find your way around the favela. It´s a maze of winding paths and alleys - but they´re also thriving communities with shops, cafes, bars, and homes all merged together clinging onto the side of a hill.
Even in the favela, location means a lot. The best location is usually at the top of the hill. You have a better view and the air is cleaner.
As we made our way downwards through the favela, at times it felt like you were in an underground cave. There was an unpleasant smell, and when you looked up you could hardly see the sky above
Our guide explained how the favelas started and how the people have survived with little government assistance.
There is of course the problem with drug gangs who control different areas of the favelas, but I came away feeling a sense of admiration at the resourcefulness of the people, and the ability to build an entire community for themselves.

With the World Cup coming to Brazil next year and the Olympics in 2016, this is an exciting time for Brazil. The country is on the up, but will such events make a difference to the people in the favelas?
Probably not immediately. We had this debate in Britain with our own Olympics and having major sporting events isn´t going to change decades of social inequality.
Brazil has a huge population of almost 200 million people. Despite it´s growing wealth and expanding middle class, there are still millions of poor people struggling in the country.
The same thing could be said about other ´BRIC´ countries like China and India, their populations are huge and not everyone can be lifted out of poverty.
Besides, even here in the UK and America there are huge gaps between rich and poor.

So would I recommend a favela tour if you find yourself in Rio? Definitely.
It´s an incredibly interesting and thought provoking experience that gives you another side to the sun, sea and samba image you may have of Brazil.
Life inside the favela was brought to the world´s attention in the film City of God and Favela tours have become a big attraction for anyone visiting the city.
Once we arrived at the top of the hill to the entrance of the favela we were visiting, I felt as if I was entering a completely different world.
I´d go as far to say it was like I´d travelled to a different country in the space of 20 minutes.
After spending my time mainly in the areas of Leblon and Ipenema, two of the most exclusive and fashionable parts of the city - the contrast with the favela couldn´t have been greater.

Although I was looking forward to exploring the favela, there was part of me that felt a little uneasy as it could been seen as patronising for tourists to wonder around a shanty town as if it´s the urban equivalent of going on safari.
Our guide requested that we didn´t take photos of the locals which I thought was right, and he took us to certain spots around the favela where it was appropriate to take photos.

Without the guide there´s no way you´d be able to find your way around the favela. It´s a maze of winding paths and alleys - but they´re also thriving communities with shops, cafes, bars, and homes all merged together clinging onto the side of a hill.
Even in the favela, location means a lot. The best location is usually at the top of the hill. You have a better view and the air is cleaner.
As we made our way downwards through the favela, at times it felt like you were in an underground cave. There was an unpleasant smell, and when you looked up you could hardly see the sky above
Our guide explained how the favelas started and how the people have survived with little government assistance.
There is of course the problem with drug gangs who control different areas of the favelas, but I came away feeling a sense of admiration at the resourcefulness of the people, and the ability to build an entire community for themselves.

With the World Cup coming to Brazil next year and the Olympics in 2016, this is an exciting time for Brazil. The country is on the up, but will such events make a difference to the people in the favelas?
Probably not immediately. We had this debate in Britain with our own Olympics and having major sporting events isn´t going to change decades of social inequality.
Brazil has a huge population of almost 200 million people. Despite it´s growing wealth and expanding middle class, there are still millions of poor people struggling in the country.
The same thing could be said about other ´BRIC´ countries like China and India, their populations are huge and not everyone can be lifted out of poverty.
Besides, even here in the UK and America there are huge gaps between rich and poor.

So would I recommend a favela tour if you find yourself in Rio? Definitely.
It´s an incredibly interesting and thought provoking experience that gives you another side to the sun, sea and samba image you may have of Brazil.
Thursday, 11 April 2013
Hello from Rio!
Oh my god it´s so good to feel the heat again!
I´m in Brazil for 2 weeks. I´ve left behind the longest ever winter back in the UK for life in the Sun.
I´m here in Rio for a week before I head north to the city of Salvador.

Brazil is somewhere I´ve always wanted to visit and so far it´s been everything I´ve imagined and more. Everything´s so Brazilian, so South American it´s great.
So far this week, I´ve spent time on the beaches; Copacobana and Ipenema are the two most famous, but I´m staying in a hostel 2 minutes walk from Leblon Beach which I think is the best.
I love watching people playing beach volleyball using just their heads, chest and feet. Would love to have a go but fear my English style lack of technique might just show me up!
Also gone on a city tour which included visiting the Christ the Redeemer statue overlooking the city and the cable car ride to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain.

The views are stunning, in fact I don´t think I´ve been to a city anywhere in the world in such a natural beatiful setting!

I´m in Brazil for 2 weeks. I´ve left behind the longest ever winter back in the UK for life in the Sun.
I´m here in Rio for a week before I head north to the city of Salvador.

Brazil is somewhere I´ve always wanted to visit and so far it´s been everything I´ve imagined and more. Everything´s so Brazilian, so South American it´s great.
So far this week, I´ve spent time on the beaches; Copacobana and Ipenema are the two most famous, but I´m staying in a hostel 2 minutes walk from Leblon Beach which I think is the best.
I love watching people playing beach volleyball using just their heads, chest and feet. Would love to have a go but fear my English style lack of technique might just show me up!
Also gone on a city tour which included visiting the Christ the Redeemer statue overlooking the city and the cable car ride to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain.

The views are stunning, in fact I don´t think I´ve been to a city anywhere in the world in such a natural beatiful setting!

Wednesday, 2 May 2012
Images of Perugia
For a small provincial town, I ended up taking a lot of photos during my time in Perugia. I've put together this slideshow of some of my favourite photos.
Perugia is beautiful. Looking around at the Medieval architecture, you have to remind yourself that you're still in the 21st Century and not the 13th. Sometimes in Italy you can feel like you're in the middle of a real life living museum, but that's one of the things I love most about the country.
Perugia is beautiful. Looking around at the Medieval architecture, you have to remind yourself that you're still in the 21st Century and not the 13th. Sometimes in Italy you can feel like you're in the middle of a real life living museum, but that's one of the things I love most about the country.
Saturday, 28 April 2012
Hello from Perugia
I've escaped the endless rain back in England, to spend a couple of days in the beautiful Italian hilltop town of Perugia.
I'm here for the city's International journalism festival that started last Wednesday and finishes tomorrow. The event's been going since 2006 and allows journalists, aspiring journalists and other media enthusiasts, the opportunity to network and attend a series of talks, workshops and discussions about journalism and its role in society.
The Palazzo dei Priori
I remember hearing about the event earlier in the year. I thought: "that sounds just like the sort of thing a media geek like myself would be into." Since arriving yesterday I've attended some really interesting discussions.
Common themes that have come up include; how can journalism survive in the digital age. Nobody knows how to make real money from the internet and this continues to be the Holy Grail of journalism. Another discussion I went to, looked at the theme of collaboration, and how journalism can get audiences more involved in reporting stories.
In between attending these discussions, I've had a chance to explore Perugia. It's not a big place, but I have to say It's stunning. It's perched on top of a hill overlooking the Umbrian countryside, the views are amazing. It's reminded me why I love Italy.
View from the city
I've traveled all over Italy, north of Rome and I think Perugia is one of those places that's a bit under the radar. What I mean is that when you think of visiting Italy, Perugia isn't somewhere you immediately think of going.
I'd still recommend it to anyone looking for a short weekend break, or a place to stop off at while travelling around Italy.
The centre of Perugia
I'm here for the city's International journalism festival that started last Wednesday and finishes tomorrow. The event's been going since 2006 and allows journalists, aspiring journalists and other media enthusiasts, the opportunity to network and attend a series of talks, workshops and discussions about journalism and its role in society.
The Palazzo dei Priori
I remember hearing about the event earlier in the year. I thought: "that sounds just like the sort of thing a media geek like myself would be into." Since arriving yesterday I've attended some really interesting discussions.
Common themes that have come up include; how can journalism survive in the digital age. Nobody knows how to make real money from the internet and this continues to be the Holy Grail of journalism. Another discussion I went to, looked at the theme of collaboration, and how journalism can get audiences more involved in reporting stories.
In between attending these discussions, I've had a chance to explore Perugia. It's not a big place, but I have to say It's stunning. It's perched on top of a hill overlooking the Umbrian countryside, the views are amazing. It's reminded me why I love Italy.
View from the city
I've traveled all over Italy, north of Rome and I think Perugia is one of those places that's a bit under the radar. What I mean is that when you think of visiting Italy, Perugia isn't somewhere you immediately think of going.
I'd still recommend it to anyone looking for a short weekend break, or a place to stop off at while travelling around Italy.
The centre of Perugia
Tuesday, 20 September 2011
Out and about in NYC
As I'm only here in New York for four days, I've got a lot to pack in. Shopping and sightseeing are the main priorities.
You can't come to New York without doing a bit of shopping. The city is one of the fashion capitals of the world.
Shopping in many of the big flagship clothing stores in mid Manhattan can be a bit intense and full on. I found a great alternative checking out the shops in Lower Manhattan's SoHo district.

The streets of SoHo
In SoHo you won't find huge skycrapers or iconic buildings that are instantly recognisable. What you get instead is a neighbourhood where it's all about the vibe. It's a very cool place to hang out.
SoHo, was originally at the heart of New York's art scene back in the 1970's and 80's. It's still got that edgier artistic feel to it in contrast to the more commercial corporate world you find in Midtown Manhattan.

More of SoHo

I managed to pick up a great jacket from Banana Republic for $190. Now of course we do have Banana Republic in the UK (well London) but you can't guarantee they'll have the same things in the UK as over here. I love Banana Republic, it's now officially my favourite shop.

New York is a shopper's heaven. There's just so much on offer for people. New Yorkers are very lucky.
I have to say, when it comes to Americans and their fashion sense, I'm not convinced. Generally speaking I don't think the average American dresses as well as people in the UK or the rest of Europe. However, New Yorkers are the exception.
They're like Londoners, whereby any style seems to go. People aren't afraid to experiement or be different, which is something you don't always find with European fashion.
It was strange seeing familiar shops like Top Shop and H&M in SoHo. Nothing wrong with them - I shop there myself. But I suppose for Americans they represent the very best in affordable European fashion.
Hello Brooklyn
On this trip to New York I was determined to spend some time away from the island of Manhattan, and explore some of the outer boroughs of New York.
Downtown Williamsburg
I decided to check out a place called Williamsburg in Brooklyn which I'd heard a lot about in recent years.
It's one of those fashionable areas that's full of hip young urban professionals. The sort that work in the 'creative' industries or people who are writers and artists.
For those of you familiar with London, Williamsburg reminds me of places like Shoreditch and Stoke Newington. Everyone on the street looked achingly cool and trendy.
I enjoyed having a walk around the neighbourhood and escaping the hustle of bustle of Manhattan for a few hours.
Brooklyn Bridge
If you asked me one thing to do when visiting New York; something that costs absolutely nothing - I would say have a walk across the Brooklyn Bridge.

The Bridge links Lower Manhattan to downtown Brooklyn. As bridges go it's seriously impressive. When you think that it was completed towards the end of the 19th century it makes you realise what an incredible piece of engineering it is.
You can find some stunning views of lower Manhattan on the bridge, although you do need to avoid some of cycle lanes, as New York cyclers will let you know exactly what they think of you, should you get in their way!

The sun setting over Lower Manhattan


Views of Central Park
As I previously mentioned, walking the streets of Mid Manhattan can be intense. It's great to know that if you head far enough uptown, you'll eventually find the green oasis that is Central Park.
One of the great features of the urban planning of New York has to be Central Park.

You can't come to New York without doing a bit of shopping. The city is one of the fashion capitals of the world.
Shopping in many of the big flagship clothing stores in mid Manhattan can be a bit intense and full on. I found a great alternative checking out the shops in Lower Manhattan's SoHo district.

The streets of SoHo
In SoHo you won't find huge skycrapers or iconic buildings that are instantly recognisable. What you get instead is a neighbourhood where it's all about the vibe. It's a very cool place to hang out.
SoHo, was originally at the heart of New York's art scene back in the 1970's and 80's. It's still got that edgier artistic feel to it in contrast to the more commercial corporate world you find in Midtown Manhattan.


I managed to pick up a great jacket from Banana Republic for $190. Now of course we do have Banana Republic in the UK (well London) but you can't guarantee they'll have the same things in the UK as over here. I love Banana Republic, it's now officially my favourite shop.

New York is a shopper's heaven. There's just so much on offer for people. New Yorkers are very lucky.
I have to say, when it comes to Americans and their fashion sense, I'm not convinced. Generally speaking I don't think the average American dresses as well as people in the UK or the rest of Europe. However, New Yorkers are the exception.
They're like Londoners, whereby any style seems to go. People aren't afraid to experiement or be different, which is something you don't always find with European fashion.
It was strange seeing familiar shops like Top Shop and H&M in SoHo. Nothing wrong with them - I shop there myself. But I suppose for Americans they represent the very best in affordable European fashion.
Hello Brooklyn
On this trip to New York I was determined to spend some time away from the island of Manhattan, and explore some of the outer boroughs of New York.
Downtown Williamsburg
I decided to check out a place called Williamsburg in Brooklyn which I'd heard a lot about in recent years.
It's one of those fashionable areas that's full of hip young urban professionals. The sort that work in the 'creative' industries or people who are writers and artists.
For those of you familiar with London, Williamsburg reminds me of places like Shoreditch and Stoke Newington. Everyone on the street looked achingly cool and trendy.
I enjoyed having a walk around the neighbourhood and escaping the hustle of bustle of Manhattan for a few hours.
Brooklyn Bridge
If you asked me one thing to do when visiting New York; something that costs absolutely nothing - I would say have a walk across the Brooklyn Bridge.

You can find some stunning views of lower Manhattan on the bridge, although you do need to avoid some of cycle lanes, as New York cyclers will let you know exactly what they think of you, should you get in their way!



Views of Central Park
As I previously mentioned, walking the streets of Mid Manhattan can be intense. It's great to know that if you head far enough uptown, you'll eventually find the green oasis that is Central Park.
One of the great features of the urban planning of New York has to be Central Park.

Monday, 19 September 2011
Live from New York
I'm blogging live from New York this week.I'm spending a couple of days in one of my favourite cities in the whole world!
I love New York. This is the first time I've been back since 1998. A lot's changed since then, most notably there's no Twin Towers, but there's still a lot of familiar sites.
I arrived here mid afternoon New York time, and after settling into my hotel on 47th Street East, I soon hit the streets of Manhattan.
The picture above was taken from one of my favourite buildings in the city, the Rockefeller centre. I arrived at a good time, as the sun was just setting over the city.
There's so much that I want to see and do in the next few days, so things are going to be pretty hectic until I leave on Thursday.
Saturday, 6 November 2010
City Break in Boston
I spent most of last week on a four day city break in Boston. I flew out on Monday and returned late Thursday evening.I liked Boston, but it wasn't quite what I expected.
It's a decent sized place but it doesn't have that big city buzz that I associate with other American cities I've been to like New York or Chicago.
View of Boston Common
It's got a really chilled out vibe to it, with a pace of life that's more quiet provincial town than bustling big city; but it's a cool place to hang out for a few days.
The city itself isn't too big and isn't overwhelming in the way London or New York can appear for some people.You can cover most of the city in a couple hours of walking. In saying that, I found the central downtown district really difficult to navigate.
Boston doesn't have a grid system to it's roads which makes it more English in that respect.
I frequently found myself in Central Boston struggling to figure out where the hell I was.
Maybe I should re-phrase that. I knew where I was, and knew where I wanted to go. It would literally take a five minute walk, I just had no idea how to get there! It was so frustrating.
The thing about Boston is there's no iconic skyscrapers or other landmarks you can use as reference points to pinpoint exactly where you are.
Massachusetts State House above
One thing that did disappoint me about Boston was the shopping. It was rubbish. You've got some very high-end fashion boutiques, and the lower end of the fashion market is covered, but hardly anything inbetween.
A scruffy looking Maceys, an American Apparel, Banana Republic, Abercrombie & Fitch and that was about it, I found it all very annoying.
To be honest there's not a huge amount to see or do in Boston. I think 3 or 4 days is more than enough, but from what I've heard it's a good base in which to explore the rest of New England.
Boston's just got a nice feel to it, it's one of those cities where it's just nice to hang out for a few days.
My two main highlights would be:
Beacon Hill
I loved walking the streets of Beacon Hill. This Victorian era neighbourhood is the jewel in the crown of the city.
The streets of Beacon HillIt's got more of an English/European feel about it. Cobbled streets and roads lined with old style Victorian gas lanterns and beautiful terraced houses.
Victorian terraces

The Village feel of Beacon Hill

Harvard, Cambridge
On Wednesday I took a trip to Cambridge. Cambridge is a town in its own right, but essentially it's a suburb of Boston, just a short ride away on the subway.
Cambridge is dominated by Harvard university, the oldest university in America.
The grounds of HarvardAs I entered the grounds of the university, I noticed a small tour group lead by two students explaining the history of some of the buildings.
I decided to tag along, and one of the tour guides approached me and explained that they take tourists on a guided tour of the university grounds and the town of Cambridge pointing out areas of interest.
It was an enjoyable tour, and the guides were funny and informative, pointing out different Harvard buildings such as lecture halls, student dormitories and churches.

No trip to Boston is complete without a visit to Cambridge, it's a lovely little town with some great pubs, restaurants and loads of history.

Student Halls below
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